tips:Interior Painting:                   paint-cans
 (1) Before you even start painting rooms inside,prep work has to be done. such
             as patching any holes,scrapping,caulking,sanding, removing hardware. Always
             remember to prime any areas that were sanded so they don't show up after
             your painting is done!

(2) If you are going to do Painting of new woodwork,drywall it will need a coat
            of primer. Also painting of stained wood cabinets and woodwork needs a oil-
            based primer to be applied.

(3) Choosing the right type of paints. Flats are usually on ceilings, satins are mostly
            used on walls and on ceilings, same as eggshell type paint, semi gloss should
            be used in bathrooms and kitchens,woodwork,hallways because dirt will
            clean off easier on a semi gloss surface

(4) When leaving wet paint brushes or rollers alone they should semergerd in the paint
            not left on top of the can or a roller cover being used should be left in the
            paint tray so it doesn't dry up and cause lint balls to come off onto the wall.

(5) If you notice paint droppings anywhere off the tarps or over spray on the woodwork
            wipe up right away. It is much easier to clean up then doing it later.

(6) On the record painting the ceilings first,then painting the walls last. Because spray
            from the ceilings and drops usually hit the walls and you don't want to be going
            over all your work!

(7) Make sure your area that you are working in is properly covered with tarps and plastic.
            Have a wet rag handy so if any drops or spray you can get to it, instead of
            looking for a rag then getting it wet will be causing you extra work.

(8) Pay attention to paint labels and make sure you are using the right color for that room.
           Allot of mistakes are made because you are assuming thats the right can to open
           and use with out even looking at the label. In bigger jobs and more different
           colors should be written down so you know room by room which color should
           be used.

(9) When painting with paints as oil based products make you have proper ventilation.
           Open windows and doors. The smell will linger and start to burn your eyes. Run
           fans to help, and isolate that room that is getting painted by closing the door.
     1/4 smooth roller should be used.Don't try to cover with one coat,you may need 2 coats.

(10) Always use a good grade of paint. Read the front of the lable to see if its one coat

            and splatter resistant. Them are the paints to use. If you are buying cheap paint
            you might need 2 or 3 coats to cover and it might not even look good.

(11) Using good paint materials is a must.
            Paint brushes
            Paint rollers                                                                        
            Paint trays
            Extension handle                         
            Drop cloths
            Step ladder- house hold( type3 )ladders are very unstable (wooden) Get a (type1)with a
              250- 300lb ratio.(fiber-glass) falling down and getting hurt ain't fun.

(12)  Rollers-- 3/8, 1/2  for walls and smooth ceilings,,  3/4 or larger for acoustic,rough ceilings

(13) Most of all take your time. Think before you act while painting inside. Some mistakes
            can be corrected but some are costly or very difficult to.

Flat, Eggshell or Satin or Semi Gloss ?


Appearance Completely flat with a matte appearance. No sheen at all. Uses Great for areas with dents, dings and changes in surface texture. Think of it as a way to cover up obvious imperfections on a wall that doesn?t get touched much. Durability If you have children or pets, this paint is NOT for you. It shows dirt easily and will not enable you to keep it clean


Appearance It reflects more than flat but only slightly. The best way to describe it is the reflective qualities are similar to that of a real eggshell. Uses This paint also hides imperfections but it is smoother than flat, meaning it reflects more light. Good for use on walls. Durability While it is washable and you will not have to be as concerned as you would be with flat, it is not as durable as Satin or Semi-gloss


Appearance This paint definitely has sheen to it but I wouldn?t call it shiny. The best way to describe it would be a silky finish. It adds just enough light to the walls without being obtrusive without being obvious. Uses It?s great for kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, kid?s rooms, woodwork and trim. Durability This silky finish is smooth enough to stand up to dirt and cleaning. (Notice a trend here: the greater the sheen, the easier the clean up).

Appearance This paint reflects between 35 and 50 percent of the light that hits it. What does that mean in real terms? It will have mush more of a shiny appearance. Uses Many find it too shiny on walls thought it works well on surfaces that get a lot of handprints, such as trim, cabinets, moldings, and doors. It also works well in bathrooms and kitchens. Durability It is extremely durable-think shiny washability

Painting Interior Walls and Trim

Preparation: As you have probably heard before preparation is the key to a good job.
In many cases the prep takes longer to do than the actual painting.
If a room to that is to be repainted is in reasonably good shape you may be able to get by without an extensive prep.

Step 1:) Look for and correct problem areas, water stains, large holes, cracks, peeling paint etc.
Proceed with general preparation, wash surfaces, remove mildew, and dull any surfaces, Caulk cracks, fill dents holes etc with spackling.

Material and Tool List:
 A very high quality insulating flat finish paint designed for use on all wall and ceiling surfaces, OR
 A satin finish acrylic latex water base paint that is filled with our insulating ceramics. Extremely durable for high traffic areas.

Other items: 120 and 220 grit Sandpaper, latex caulk, spackling compound, masking tape, rags. joint compound, joint tape, drop cloths, masking paper, stain sealer, detergent, de-glosser, paint strainers, step ladder paint brushes, buckets, roller covers, roller handles, roller pan, extension pole, putty knife, caulk gun, screw driver.

Personal Items: Goggles, work gloves, rubber gloves, hat, dust mask, respirator.
Beginning The Work
Clear out the room; move as much furniture as possible to another room. If large furniture is to difficult to move out, move it to the center of the room and cover with the plastic drop cloths. Take down pictures and curtains. Cover the floor with drop cloths.

Any washing you have decided can be done at this point.
Remove electrical wall plates (use caution), and cover outlets and switches with tape.
Next start the major wallboard repairs you will be doing: patch holes in wallboard, the larger repairs will take several coats of joint compound and drywall tape, and you must allow dry time between each coat.

Scrape any areas of loose paint, sand debris from prior coats of paint. If the prior paint is in very good condition the fine 220 paper can be used, but most often a coarser 120 grit paper is needed for this purpose.

Seal stains and peeling paint areas with a stain/sealer like Stain Blocker

Glossy surfaces can now be dulled by sanding with 120 or 220 grit sandpaper.

Fill holes in woodwork with spackling, wood dough, or other preferred wood filler using a putty knife.

Caulk joints at door and window casings baseboards and other painted woodwork use an acrylic latex caulk. Caulking can often repair cracks at corners of walls and ceilings.

When the fillers (joint compound, spackling, wood dough) have dried sand any build up of filler flush with surface. Spot prime filled areas and bare wood with the sealer or other appropriate primer. Note if you will be priming an entire area spot priming is not necessary.
Final Prep Steps
Check the primer to see if it needs any sanding before the first coat of finish paint is applied.
Clean the room. If you have created a lot of dust wipe down and vacuum.
Pick up dropcloths and take them outside to shake off dust.
Pre-1978 houses may  Have lead Paint issues
Applying the finish coat of paint:
Make sure every thing that could get splattered is covered.

Start by cutting in along the edges of the ceiling with the finish ceiling paint.
Use a 2 inch or a 3 brush. Paint out a strip about 3 or 4 inches wide from the wall.
Cut in the entire perimeter of the ceiling. All the way around the room. Also cut in around any lights or other fixtures that are installed on the ceiling. Next: Roll out the ceiling. Begin rolling at a corner. Roll a strip about 2 feet wide along the shorter dimension of the room. Roll along beside the wall. Over lap your cut in strip about an inch or more. Continue to the corner at the other side of the room, then paint another strip going back and overlapping the previously painted strip. Continue until the ceiling is complete.
Check for anything that may not have been covered for paint spatters. Wipe up any spatters with a damp rag or sponge.
Allow the ceiling time to dry to see if it needs another coat. Often it will not look satisfactory until at least several hours of dry time.
If recoating, allow sufficient between recoats. Check can label for recoat time
Tip: Cutting in textured ceilings can be difficult. Try a 10-12" wide drywall knife as a shield holding it flat on the wall and up tight in the ceiling/wall joint. Another option is to use masking tape on wall. Experiment with one wall and remove tape immediately

Paint one wall complete at a time. Cut in along the ceiling line using a 2 - 3" brush. Paint a strip about 3 inches wide down from the ceiling, around door and window casings, at the wall corners ,and next to the baseboards. Then roll the wall .Start rolling at the top corner of one wall, overlapping your cut in paint as you go and work your way down so as to paint a vertical strip from top to bottom. Make the about 2 feet wide.. Then roll another 2 foot strip from top to bottom overlapping the first strip an inch or so. Continue until the wall is finished. Next cut in and roll the next wall .Continue until all walls in the room are completed.

Baseboards :
After the walls have had adequate time to dry you can begin the baseboards. You may be painting down next to a finished floor such as a linoleum or a carpet. You will have to cut in to the wall and the floor as you paint the baseboards. Using masking tape on the floor is often advantageous. A cut in shield can be used to cut in next to carpet or use masking tape on the carpet .

When using masking tape as a cut in guide do not put paint on thickly against the tape edge, as it may leak. Painters sometimes refer to this as dry brushing . Try a section, then pull off the tape to make sure you are getting no leaks. If you get leaks clean the wet paint immediately.

It may be safer to cut in to the floor as good as possible ,even when using masking tape, but if the paint is going on to thick it could still leak through the masking tape

Finish all base boards then carefully pull up masking tape.

Doors and Trim:
The wood work is often the most time consuming part of an interior paint job
For windows; Removing the locks first will help. Paint the top window sash first sliding it up and down behind the lower sash so that you can paint it completely. When completely painted slide it up to within one inch from fully closed until it is dry. Paint the lower sash and then the casing. Leave the windows open as long as you possibly can so that they dry hard.
Doors and Trim: Remove or tape around the doorknob. Paint the doors first and then the door casings and trim